Serious Trouble in ‘Little Berlin’: The Tiny Hamlet Divided in Half by the Cold War

An stream so shallow you scarcely got your feet wet divided a community for in excess of four decades worth of time. Because of a chance of topography, the fifty locals of Mödlareuth, a tiny settlement surrounded by evergreen groves, fields and stunning views, found themselves at the center of the cold war. They had the unfortunate circumstance to span the Bavarian region, in the Federal Republic of Germany, and the Thuringian region in the Eastern part, a frontier that was marked first by a barrier and then by a barricade. United States military personnel dubbed it Small Berlin.

Preserving the Past

A few months after their own division was breached, and prior to their country had reunified in 1990, a assembly of villagers began memorialising their history. The effort is about to be completed: on 9 November, the thirty-sixth commemoration of the fall of the Wall in Berlin, the Deutsch-Deutsches Museum Mödlareuth will begin operations. It was formally launched by the head of state, Frank-Walter Steinmeier, in early October, but the display was not completely ready. Speaking to the residents who lived through the former times, Steinmeier said: “You were witnesses of an brutal separation, which ripped households apart and turned neighbours into aliens.”

“You were bystanders of an brutal division, which ripped relatives asunder and turned neighbors into aliens.”

Bygone Origins

Even at its founding in 1810, the hamlet spanned the Bavarian Kingdom and the Princely State of Reuss, a noble lineage best known for giving all its male descendants the name Heinrich and numbering them sequentially by birth. As Steinmeier told the crowd, the quirk did not stand in the path of the residents socializing in the very same pub, going to the identical religious building and enrolling their young ones to the identical educational institution.

Post-War Separation

Next arrived the global conflict. The moment they arrived, the Russians erected wooden posts by the creek. For a year they seized the entire hamlet, setting up their control center in a building on the western side, adorning it with a picture of Stalin and a Soviet emblem. The American soldiers persuaded them to withdraw across the brook. For a period, villagers could continue to hop over, though as restrictions increased they were obliged to present identity papers, despite the fact that all knew who they were, and to go back at after dark.

Intensification of Boundary Measures

Then, in 1952, came wire fencing and the official shutting of the border. In 1966, as in Berlin half a decade before, a concrete structure was constructed, with landmines, vehicle barriers and watchtowers. The residents could continue to view each other by scaling elevations, but on the Soviet side waving and shouting were prohibited. A female resident was put on a Stasi surveillance list for answering “likewise” to a western villager who wished her “happy new year”.

Exhibition Center Establishment

I heard narratives like these incidents by Robert Lebegern, the head of the institution, who has spent a large part of his working life building it. Locals were polled early on about how how long a section structure they wanted to maintain. They opted for a section on the western edge, adjacent to where a local resident succeeded to get away in the darkest hours with a scaling tool, following which the boundary was heavily strengthened.

Conserved Buildings

A pair of observation towers are preserved together with a collection of exhibits illustrating the most significant dates in the hamlet’s history. As we stroll, Robert Lebegern lists the rules: not a single person could come within 5km of the boundary. Rural residents needed special permission to look after their produce; the partner could use the agricultural equipment but never the two, for fear that they attempted to flee. Military personnel stood watch.

Broader Context

The boundary between Western Germany and the East Germany stretched 1,400km, from the Baltic coast in the north to here in the southern region. Berlin is recalled and honored the greatest, but more than twice as many individuals (well over 300) were killed seeking to traverse it in rural areas than in the big city. the director tells me that 95 percent of escape attempts did not succeed.

Village Existence

Most of Mödlareuth’s residents were farmers or skilled workers, who adjusted to residing in the grey zone between 2 ideological spheres by keeping their heads down and caring for their land. They nor did they endorsed the socialist government nor resisted it, the director explains.

Tourism

For sightseers, however, the village became a type of site of interest. About 15,000 visited annually, optical devices in their hands, to gawp – and then rapidly depart. In 1983, the American president, George Bush, was guided by the German defence minister.

Twenty five years after merger, the TV show, a TV series about a imaginary village similar to Mödlareuth, resulted in renewed curiosity.

Current Changes

The inauguration of the recently established museum – with a coffee shop, store, film screening area and sizable parking lot – is probable to

Ryan Kelley
Ryan Kelley

Environmental journalist with a decade of experience covering climate science and policy, based in Berlin.