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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.